SHOOTING THE BLACK POWDER REVOLVER
c John L. Fuhring

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Introduction to my articles on shooting the black powder revolver

The fun and challenge of black powder revolver shooting
     Compared to cartridge pistols, black powder revolvers require a lot more work and technical knowledge to get them to shoot properly, they are generally large and heavy for their caliber, they are slow to reload and you should clean them after each shooting session.  Acknowledging these shortcomings, why have black powder revolvers remained so popular?  Part of that answer is that legislative authorities in many countries have recognized that the criminal element do not use these weapons and therefore the restrictions on them are much less than they are with more modern weapons.  More importantly, shooting these pistols is a whole lot of pure fun -- once you get the hang of loading and firing them.

     You know, I own both cartridge revolvers and semi auto pistols and I enjoy shooting (and hunting with) all my firearms, but shooting black powder is, by far, the most fun kind of shooting I do or I have ever done.  When a charge is fired, there is a very satisfying amount of recoil (that you can vary from light to heavy) and there's a big jolly blast of smoke & flame. Add to all that, there's the fun and satisfaction of hitting exactly what you're aiming at.  When loaded right and carefully held on target, my .44 black powder pistol is an incredibly accurate weapon that is in no way inferior to my cartridge pistols.   Black powder naturally makes you want to strive to be a marksman and not just a shooter.

     Things weren't always this good.  In the early 1960s I used to shoot a nicely made replica of a Colt New Army .44 Model 1860.  I remember how graceful and flowing the lines of the barrel looked to me and how I admired the battle scene engraved on the the cylinder.  The butt of the pistol fit my hand so nicely and working the action just felt good.  Back then people (including yours truly) were very ignorant of black powder shooting and there was a lot of misinformation circulating around (there still is).  Multiple discharges (chain firing) were the norm and considered inevitable.  Of course, nobody expected the pistols to be very accurate and just hitting the paper -- anywhere -- was a major accomplishment.  

     I can hardly believe how stupid my friends and I were back then.  Our favorite loading technique was to pour black powder over the cylinder and into the chambers without measuring it.  When a chamber would fill up, we'd rotate it to the next chamber without stopping the flow.  Of course, powder would get all over the top of the cylinder, a cylinder made sticky because of the Crisco from the previous loading.  After pouring the powder in this way, we'd ram in the bullets.  To prevent chain firing (or so we believed), we'd plaster (glomm) on a thick layer of Crisco to the outside of the cylinder, little realizing that the Crisco actually made matters worse.  

     Then there was the rapid build up of fowling and poor accuracy.  It was just accepted that after the first three to six shots, the bullets would be all over the target.  Finally, after about 18 shots, the pistol would be jammed with fowling, the cylinder wouldn't rotate anymore and so we'd take it home to wash it out with soap and water and thus stink up the whole house with the odor of rotten eggs.

     I developed a mistaken impression that black powder revolvers were slow loading, inaccurate, highly prone to chain firing, and were a nasty mess to clean, so after my initial fascination, I finally gave up on them and got rid of mine.  For years afterward I shot nothing but cartridge pistols and used nothing but smokeless propellants in my reloads.  About 15 years ago I got into cavalry reenacting and bought good quality Civil War period reproduction firearms as part of my equipment.  This gave me an opportunity to do some interesting experiments and the more I experimented, the more I learned to enjoy black powder shooting.

     Well, I have learned a lot since those days and now I never get a chain fire, my pistol does not fowl up, my bullets hit the target where I intend them to and cleaning my pistol is fast, easy and odorless.  For me today, black powder shooting is much more enjoyable and satisfying than it was "back in the good old days" and, as I said earlier, it is my most fun kind of shooting.  I want to share with you some of my experiences so that you too will find black powder shooting your most fun kind of shooting too.

Popular pistol styles available in reproduction
     By far, the most common  revolvers of the Civil War era were the models 1851 & 1860 Colts and the model 1858 Remington.   Each of these weapons were and are today available in "Army" (.44) and "Navy" (.36) calibers.   My favorite style of replica revolver is the Remington because of its highly superior frame design, its fixed and accurate sight & barrel alignment and its ease of disassembly.  Another really important reason I like the Remington is because the head of its hammer goes through a slot in the frame so that fragments from exploded caps can't possibly get in to the action and cause a jam (or into your eyes either).  All the Colts I have ever shot have, within a few shots, seriously jammed up or misfired because their open frame construction allows cap fragments to lodge between the frame and the hammer or go down into the action.  If you are lucky, all that happens is that you get a misfire, but most of the time the fragment goes deep within the action and really jams it up.  Once a cap fragment is deep in the action, the Colt style pistol almost always has to be disassembled, the fragment removed and then the pistol must be reassembled before you can shoot the damned thing again.   The primitive design of the Colt (pretty much unchanged from the original 1836 Colt Patterson) guarantees that particles of exploded cap will make their way into the action sooner or later.   It is a fact that Buffalo Bill Cody carried a Remington 1858 revolver all his life even after the era of the cartridge pistol.  He said of his Remington "it never failed me."  I suspect he said that because earlier Colts HAD failed him when he needed them.  According to some sources, officers who were technically savvy about weapons and who could afford it, would buy Remingtons with their own money rather than bother with the Colts the Government issued.

     Despite the Colt's many and glaring design defects, back in the old days, the Colt’s outsold all other brands and during the Civil War they were issued to troops on a 2 to 1 ratio to the Remington.  There were many reasons for this.  Sam Colt’s revolvers hit the market as early as the mid 1830's and the early ones, including the powerful dragoon models, made a wonderful reputation for Colt that captured the public's imagination.  For decades, people used the word 'colt' to mean 'revolver' regardless of the actual brand.  For example: "the colt I carried was a 1858 Remington I bought myself."  Colonel Sam was also a master salesman and he made friends with every important general, admiral and government official in America.  He shamelessly presented all important persons with exquisitely hand crafted, engraved & inlayed pistols as gifts.  Finally, even Colt's commercial grade pistols were beautifully made by skilled craftsmen using the finest materials of the day (so-called "Silver Spring Steel").  Colt pistols have always fit the hand superbly and they have perhaps the finest hammer location and cocking action of any single action revolver ever made.  Many people also insist that Colt single action revolvers have always had superior "point-ability" (important in combat shooting).   

     Of course, there are many other types of revolvers on the market ranging from the Starr double action to the huge Dragoons to the 9 shot + shotgun LeMat to the brass framed and historically accurate reproductions of Confederate manufactured pistols in .36 caliber to the awful non-historic brass framed models in .44 caliber.  They all work the same, load the same and are equally fun to shoot, but as they were in the past, "also ran" models are only a small fraction of what people were shooting then and just a fraction of what people are shooting today, so I am not going to go into any detail about them.  Let it suffice that the general information presented here applies to them just as it does to the Colts and Remingtons.

     The fact is, no matter what type of revolver you have or you decide to get, it will be a lot of fun to shoot and the owners of each type comes to really like what they have.  It is really hard to make a mistake here, so if you like the looks of a particular model or you like some historical aspect associated with it, buy it, you won't be sorry.

What brand and where to buy it
     So what brand should you buy?  I admit that I am prejudiced in favor of the Uberti brand and prejudiced against the Pietta brand.  As far as I'm concerned, all the other brands lie somewhere in between.  My Uberti is a top of the line model, it shoots very accurately and it is the most faithful reproduction of the original Remington on the market.  I am prejudiced against Pietta firearms not because of their superb fit and finish (the external machining, fit & finish is indeed superb), but because of my early experience with them as inaccurate shooters due to what I saw as cheap & substandard internal machining of their barrels and firing chambers.  Perhaps by now they have improved that aspect of their manufacturing and they can be expected to shoot as well as any brand.  
OK, since writing the above, I've had an opportunity to do some minor but extensive gun-smithing on a friend's Pietta that he has had for years, but had never fired before.  After a bunch of work, I have it operating nearly as well as my Uberti. While working on it I noticed the internal machining was poor with a lot of tool marks in the deeper parts of the chambers and the chambers were not all exactly equal in volume.  Based on this and my old prejudices, I "knew" that it wouldn't be a good shooter.  Well, we went to the range to fire it for the first time and the first thing I did was show my friend how to load the pistol "properly" as I describe in chapter 3.  My friend wasn't so sure, so he insisted that I take the first few shots (maybe he was afraid it would "explode" on me).  Not expecting the pistol to be very accurate, I amazed my friend and myself by hitting in the black every time (and, of course, NO chain fires).  After this latest experience, I think I might have to take back what I said earlier about Piettas not being accurate shooters.

     
Then there is a question of where you should buy.  In most places in the USA, a black powder firearm may be ordered through the mail in addition to buying one at a retail store.  These firearms are also available for sale at many Civil War reenactments at the areas reserved for the "sutlers."  Personally, (and they aren't paying me to say this), I think that Dixie Gun Works is your very best bet.  I am prejudiced against Cabelas because they push their brass framed Piettas and advertise many of these cheap fakes with misleading or downright inaccurate historical descriptions.  For example, those horrible .44 caliber brass framed "Colt Navy Confederate models" are fakes and what they say about the originals having been made in the South is just a lie.  Some good deals on some lesser known brands may be had at the Civil War reenactments, but I would sincerely advise against buying anything under those circumstances.  My advice is to buy the best from the best and it is up to you to judge for yourself who and what the best is and for this you must do a little homework.

How much you should spend on your revolver    
     As it is with most things in life, the higher quality you buy, the better it works and the more fun it is to own.  This is very true when it comes to the replica pistols.  The cheap revolvers work OK, but if you really want to shoot well and own something you are proud of, buy something that is slightly more than you think you can afford.  "Nobody was ever sorry they bought quality" is something that should be considered when hesitating to spend the extra money on an extra nice pistol.  While I'm throwing out aphorisms, consider that "a thing of beauty is a joy forever" and something beautifully made is seldom cheap.  


John's Intemperate Philippic Regarding Brass Framed Revolvers
(you don't have to agree with because it's just my opinion)
    If you have a brass framed revolver already, I hope you won't be too offended by what I say next.  You see, I'm on a one-man crusade to stamp them out because they are mostly un-historical and brass is a soft and weak metal.  On the other hand, if you don't care about historical accuracy and are happy to shoot light charges (the most fun kind of shooting anyway), then you will really enjoy your brass-framed pistol and you should just ignore this rant.

     There is one kind of black powder revolver that I would seriously advise staying away from and that is the brass frame Colt types.  These are cheap weapons, they are not good shooting pieces and they are not historically accurate.  There is scant evidence that anybody in the South ever manufactured more than just a handful of brass framed Colt 1851 copies during the Civil War (certainly Colt never did).  If you shoot normal charges out of one of those brass pieces of junk, the cylinder shaft will pull out of the frame after a while, it will get all loose and the thing will be useless.  This is especially true of the .44 "Confederate" models (of which there is absolutely no evidence that any were ever manufactured anywhere by anybody in that caliber).  Some sellers even have the nerve to call .44 caliber brass framed junkers "Confederate Navy" models when the word 'Navy' always meant .36 caliber.  Yes, a few brass framed Navy caliber pistols were manufactured in the South, but never in .44 caliber.  Look, for a few bucks more you can have a steel frame Colt or a Remington, so please don't bother with these brass framed pieces of junk.  These brass framed fakes (I will not call these things "reproductions") are flashy when they are polished up and they sure look "old time" to those who don't know much about period pistols, but they are vastly inferior to the same pistol with a steel frame.  

     Here are my suggestions:  if you already have a brass pistol, polish it up really shiny and then hang it on a wall somewhere, but if you insist on shooting it, use no more than half charges of powder.  Most of us eventually buy more than one pistol, so you might consider using your brass pistol to see if you like this kind of shooting and if you do (and I think you will), buy yourself a second pistol with a steel frame and make that one your primary "shooting iron."

     By the way, I believe that there are some brass frame Remingtons out there too.  The fact is, Remington did manufacture a tiny .31 caliber pocket pistol with a brass frame, but it is also a fact that Remington never, ever made a brass frame pistol in the Army or Navy calibers and so any brass framed Remingtons you might see are historically inaccurate.  Because of the strong frame design, a brass frame Remington type pistol might be able to stand full charges without falling apart, but is it really worth saving just a few bucks and end up with something so damned phony?  You re-enactors of either side, do you want to "farb" yourselves this way even if the ignorant public doesn't know the difference?  You Southern reenactors wishing to have "Confederate" equipment to be as "historically accurate as possible," just remember that the vast majority of arms used by the South were weapons that were in armories before hostilities began, captured weapons and weapons bought from overseas - and none of these were in brass.  It is highly unlikely (in my mind anyway) that any front line Confederate officer or cavalryman would have carried a crude, regionally made brass-framed .36 Navy Colt knock-off, but that the very few pistols that were actually made were issued to Home Guard units only.   If you want to own a strong revolver and you want to be as "authentic" and "period" as possible and you want to avoid "farbing" yourself, please stay away from brass and don't encourage unscrupulous people (like Pietta) to manufacture and other unscrupulous people (like Cabelas) to sell these non-historic pieces of junk.


A Foreword to my Black Powder Articles
     In the following series of articles I would like to share with you some of my ideas regarding shooting the black powder revolver.  In the pages that will follow, I will discuss the causes and prevention of chain firing, a highly unconventional method of loading that prevents fowling from building up and spoiling your accuracy, the fastest, easiest and best method of cleaning your revolver, some simple gun smithing you might want to try for your self and finally an article about all the things you will need to have and you will need to know before you begin this hobby.  Much of what I will present goes against common practice and debunks many long held myths associated with black powder shooting.    I invite you to be very skeptical of what you read and to try things out for yourself.  One of the great pleasures of black powder shooting is the opportunity to experiment and try out new things.  You may not agree with everything presented here, so if you think something presented here is stupid or might be dangerous for you to try, don't try it.

     Speaking of dangerous, these revolvers can be dangerous if mishandled and misused.  They do not have many of the safety devices of more modern revolvers and they take more technical skill to load than do modern metallic cartridge weapons.  It should never be forgotten that these weapons were primarily designed to kill other human beings and they are just as deadly as any modern pistol.  For example, a .45 semi-automatic pistol will throw a slug out at about 900 feet per second which is exactly the velocity a .44 slug comes out of an "Army" revolver.   A slug fired from a .36 "Navy" pistol has external ballistics identical to a slug fired from a modern 38 Special.  Careless or stupid handling of these pieces (like everything else) can lead to tragedy. With proper care in loading them and sticking to common sense shooting rules -- like pointing them in a safe direction, wearing hearing and especially eye protection, Etc. -- they are quite safe & fun to shoot and surprisingly accurate.  Always remember that you have a moral and legal duty to handle these weapons responsibly.


     The first article in this series will be about the simple things you can do to absolutely prevent chain firing so you never have to worry about having a chain fire again.

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